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what settings would you try at this rink?

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Author Topic: what settings would you try at this rink?  (Read 3323 times)
Boxgrover
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« on: January 01, 2006, 08:06:28 AM »

A couple of years ago I took a team photo of a boy's hockey team. The settings for this shot, using my Canon A40, were basic ie lots of auto. A tripod was used.



And here is the EXIF data:

Camera Model Name      Canon PowerShot A40
Shooting Date/Time      12/11/2003 5:17:37 PM
Shooting Mode      Program AE
Photo Effect      Off
Tv (Shutter Speed)      1/10
Av (Aperture Value)      4.5
Light Metering      Evaluative
Exposure Compensation      0
ISO Speed      Auto
Lens      5.4 - 16.2 mm
Focal Length      13.4 mm
Digital Zoom      None
Image Size      1600x1200
Image Quality      Superfine
Flash      Off
White Balance      Fluorescent H
AF Mode      Single AF
Active AF Points      [ Center ]
Color Space      sRGB
File Size      946 KB
Drive Mode      Single-frame shooting

Now two and a half years later I am to do a very similar shot, in the same location, using my newly acquired S2 IS. I wont be able to experiment prior to getting the boys arranged on the ice  Embarrassed.

From your remote location can you suggest some obvious settings to enable on my S2 to make an even better picture?
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ShutterbugGail
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« Reply #1 on: January 01, 2006, 09:28:14 AM »

That's a very fine photo. As long as you use a tripod I'd use similar settings. I'd watch that the aperture not go less than 4.5 so you get decent depth of field. Also check the white balance settings. You can see pretty much how a photo will look by previewing it on the LDc.

You should try to take some test shots, even if only to check the white balance and lighting in the room. Don't forget to shut IS off when using a tripod.

Someone may come along with additional suggestions.
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Boxgrover
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« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2006, 09:57:18 AM »

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That's a very fine photo. As long as you use a tripod I'd use similar settings.


Thanks Gail. You are kind. Obvious, but a tripod makes things so much better doesnt it?


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Also check the white balance settings


Unless the lighting has changed at this same arena the Fluorescent H used in the A40 pic seems to have done the job.

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You can see pretty much how a photo will look by previewing it on the LDc.


I still dont feel real confident that the LCD gives the whole picture, so to speak  Wink re the final picture. The LCD on the S2 doesnt seem big enough to rely on it for the final click.

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You should try to take some test shots, even if only to check the white balance and lighting in the room. Don't forget to shut IS off when using a tripod.


You are right. I will do my best to go onto the rink before the big day.

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Someone may come along with additional suggestions.


I am hoping!

I am not sure if you know the Canon A40 specs. It is 3X optical, 2.1 megapixel camera. Looking at the A40 shot, will it be possible to get more of a closeup with my S2 and still 'fit' the whole team into the picture? Or will the only diff be the greater qualtiy/clarity because of the 5 megapixels vs the 2 of the A40?
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ShutterbugGail
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« Reply #3 on: January 01, 2006, 10:14:55 AM »

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I still dont feel real confident that the LCD gives the whole picture, so to speak  


It doesn't; few do. But it does give you an idea how the overall photo looks and, in my experience, it gives a very good indication if the white balance is set correctly.

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Looking at the A40 shot, will it be possible to get more of a closeup with my S2 and still 'fit' the whole team into the picture? Or will the only diff be the greater qualtiy/clarity because of the 5 megapixels vs the 2 of the A40?


All other things being equal, the additional megapixels will not give you more clarity/quality but more resolution. That means you'll be able to crop more (though I doubt you'll need to for this type of shot) and make larger prints without the image losing detail.

Personally, I wouldn't zoom much. I'd get as close to the group using near the widest angle. Because you'll be closer, the lighting will be better, imho.
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bdery
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« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2006, 04:33:48 AM »

I'll just play at being that "someone. ho ads a bit of advice.

Since you have the S2, take advantage of its exposure bracketing feature, and you'll be sure to have the right exposure. Also, I think your pic is very good but a bit warm, so I'd try various WB settings. If the flash is used, try Flash WB, it's very good.  You can always reduce the impact of the red channel in post-processing. Of course, shoot at superfine for this task.

Use a wide aperture, but maybe not th widest, to preserve some DOF. As Gail said, try to get close to avind the need for a zoom.

Good luck!
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Boxgrover
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« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2006, 06:49:31 AM »

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I'll just play at being that "someone. ho ads a bit of advice.


Definitely appreciated! Any chance you could come by and stand over my shoulder?  Wink

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Since you have the S2, take advantage of its exposure bracketing feature, and you'll be sure to have the right exposure.


I am quickly scanning through the index of the manual...is 'exposure bracketing' the same as 'exposure compensation'

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If the flash is used, try Flash WB, it's very good.


Again I am very much a beginner with manual controls but I was imagining, just as I did with the A40 2 years ago that using the flash would not be effective in such a situation as I would be too far away from the team. Using the tripod compensated for the lack of flash?

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Of course, shoot at superfine for this task.


I have it on superfine by default.

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As Gail said, try to get close to avind the need for a zoom.


I will.
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bdery
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« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2006, 12:39:03 PM »

First, sorry about the numerous typos in my previous post. My fingers must have been cold or something.

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I am quickly scanning through the index of the manual...is 'exposure bracketing' the same as 'exposure compensation'


No it's not. Exposure compensation is simply a way or telling the camera that you want the picture underexposed or overexposed in comparison to what it would choose as the perfect setting. Exposure bracketing is a function (accessed via the FUNC menu, Bracketing, which gives you access to focus or exposure bracketing) that allows you to take three shots, and when exposure bracketing is selected, those shots will be : 1-normal exposure, 2-slight underexposure, 3-slight overexposure. You can select the amplitude of the over/underexposure. That way, even if you miss your exposure calculations (or the camera does), one out of the three should be fine. Focus bracketing does the same but with focusing distance. Those options are not available in Auto mode.

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Again I am very much a beginner with manual controls but I was imagining, just as I did with the A40 2 years ago that using the flash would not be effective in such a situation as I would be too far away from the team. Using the tripod compensated for the lack of flash?


The flash on the S2 reaches to about 4 meters. It could very well be that it's not enough, you're right. You might still try it to see how it does. My comment about Flash WB was more of a general statement, though.

One thing you can do is use slow Sync with the flash. What this does (accessed via the MENU button) is to use a slow shutter speed, and fire the flash anyway. That way, you get a little more light from your subject, and you still gather light from the background. Useful.

Using the tripod does compensate for the lack of flash, if the shutter speed is low enough. Use a low ISO value, too, it,s safer. Maybe ISO 100 would be best because at too slow a shutter speed, your subjects might move. Also, use the custom delay speed, and set it to 1 second. That way, your hand pressing the button won't induce shake.
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Boxgrover
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« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2006, 02:11:51 AM »

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First, sorry about the numerous typos in my previous post. My fingers must have been cold or something.


Not a problem. I knew what you meant!

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Using the tripod does compensate for the lack of flash, if the shutter speed is low enough.


I will again use the tripod.

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Use a low ISO value, too, it,s safer. Maybe ISO 100.


I will use 100.

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Also, use the custom delay speed, and set it to 1 second. That way, your hand pressing the button won't induce shake.


It is possible, even using the tripod to induce 'shake' right?

I actually went to the empty arena yesterday and setup the tripod on the ice and 'goofed' around. There were several shots I know I snapped, flash down but using the tripod, in which the 'shake' icon came up.

Would there be any indication in the EXIF data that the picture was taken with such a warning?
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ShutterbugGail
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« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2006, 07:24:55 AM »

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It is possible, even using the tripod to induce 'shake' right?


Yes, it goes on whenever shutter speeds are so low that camera shake could be a problem, even when using a tripod or if IS is on.


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Would there be any indication in the EXIF data that the picture was taken with such a warning?


No, but you can assume it was on when the data reveals that you used a slow shutter speed.

Good for you making the extra effort to take test shots! Let us know how it goes.
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