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Macro with Canon S2 IS

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Author Topic: Macro with Canon S2 IS  (Read 3364 times)
Emperor
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« on: January 20, 2007, 08:15:47 AM »

Hello,

I've been trying to take Macro shots using my Canon S2 IS but when I zoom close to the subject, the view keeps alternating between a clear view and a blurred view (for the most part). I'm not sure if my settings are right since its a new camera. I usually use the Auto Mode and enable macro settings. Would greatly appreciate any help.
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Mike54
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« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2007, 10:14:43 AM »

Hi Emperor and welcome to the Q&A Board. I'm not familiar with your specific camera but I can say that when shooting macro your depth of field is going to be very small so any movement on your part is going to be very obvious. This tutorial may be of help to you until someone more familiar with your camera comes along (there are a couple here so be patient Wink)
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« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2007, 10:31:59 AM »

Thanks Mike! The full name of my camera is
Canon Power Shot S2 IS, its a point and click camera.
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Mike54
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« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2007, 10:58:32 AM »

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The full name of my camera is  
Canon Power Shot S2 IS, it's a point and click camera.

We won't hold that against you. Wink It's a darn nice camera BTW. I just meant I hadn't actually handled one myself.

I didn't see any macro info specifically but you might want to check out Gails S2 Blog. There's a lot of info there.
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ShutterbugGail
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« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2007, 11:03:44 AM »

For best results, set the camera to Macro or Super Macro mode and shoot at the widest focal length. I've never gotten good close-up shots when zooming in.

Besides the article Mike mentioned, you may find my S2 Blog helpful for general usage of the camera:

http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-logs/1/

This part too:

http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-logs/1/focusing.php

Let us know how it goes and don't hesitate to ask if you have further questions.
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« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2007, 07:24:31 PM »

Thank you, Mike and Gail,

Mike, you were right. In the Super Macro setting even the slightest amount of shake translates into a blurred image. I tried clicking a photograph of a 2 inch sponge bob image on a miniature porcelain mug while sitting the camera on a cofee table and the photograph came out excellently. You guys are doing a great job! Smiley
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ShutterbugGail
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« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2007, 12:58:53 AM »

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my camera is  
Canon Power Shot S2 IS, its a point and click camera.


All digital cameras have point-and-shoot, automatic features. But the S2 is actually a very sophisticated camera.

I highly suggest you use P Mode instead of fully automatic mode. P Mode is automatic but lets you make some changes if you wish to (check the manual).

If you haven't already, you should switch to Single Area Focus mode. AiAF (auto focus) is kind of useless. Single AF will give you more control over where in a scene the camera actually focuses.

Macro photography can be a lot of fun and the resulting photos quite rewarding. If you really get into close-up photography, you'll eventually want to learn more about using the  Aperture (in Aperture Priority Mode) to control Depth of Field:

Aperture
http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/advanced-settings/aperture.php

Depth of Field
http://www.digicamhelp.com/taking-photos/advanced-techniques/dof.php

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bdery
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« Reply #7 on: January 22, 2007, 05:19:27 AM »

Hi emperor,

you have gotten good advice so far, I will simply add something that might help you.

When you use super macro, you cannot use the lens to zoom, but you can focus on subjects 0 to 10 cm from you. With macro (regular) you can focus on subjects 10-50 cm from you, and you can zoom a bit, but not much, and I'm guessing this is part of the problem you mentionned. Notice when you zoom a yellow bar appears under the zoom slider? If you touch the yellow bar, the camera will not focus.

If you do want to zoom (for instance, when not wanting to get near  a spider... Wink  ) use a tripod, do not use macro, and zom all the way.

Remember, when not using a tripod, activate IS as it will help reduce the blur. The more you zoom, the more blur you will get, too.
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« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2007, 05:55:40 PM »

Thank you gentlemen, you've been very kind. I understood, albeit late that you cannot zoom too much when using the Macro setting...why can't the manuals be more lucid about such details? But how do I use IS? I did read a bit about depth of field but I think it'll take me a while to start using the Aperture Priority Mode. Thanks again, I think I have changed it to single focus, after reading Gail's settings.
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« Reply #9 on: January 24, 2007, 04:23:14 AM »

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...why can't the manuals be more lucid about such details?


That's why sites like digicamhelp exist.  Wink Grin Tongue

Quote
But how do I use IS?


The only thing you have to do is turn it on or off, and forget about it....except when using a tripod. Manufacturers generally recommend shutting Image Stabilization off when using a camera support.

I keep my cameras with Image Stabilization to Shoot Only IS. If I use video mode, the camera automatically switches to Continuous IS.

Here's some information about Image Stabilization modes:

http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/camera-parts/image-stabilization.php
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bdery
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« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2007, 04:26:15 AM »

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But how do I use IS?


I would suggest you use it in Shoot Only mode, that's what works best with my S2. If you are panning, set it to panning mode, and if you have trouble framing because of movement and jerks in the frame, use Continuous. When using a tripod, switch it off.

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I did read a bit about depth of field but I think it'll take me a while to start using the Aperture Priority Mode.


Give yourself time. The first things you should concentrate on is understanding the effect of ISO and White Balance on your images (you can set those in P mode). You will see that it's pretty simple after some time, and controlling those parameters will improve your results a lot.

concerning aperture, again it boils down to simple concepts. With a larger aperture, you get a shallower depth of field. And a larger aperture is identified with a smaller f-number (f2,7 means the aperture is larger than f8 ). With a pocket camera (meaning everything that is not a DSLR) the sensor is small, so DOF is pretty large at any time, but it depends on aperture and the zoom position. You might visit www.dofmaster.com to get a feel for this, you simply input your parameters and see the DOF you get. It helps understanding the concept.
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Deb
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« Reply #11 on: January 24, 2007, 06:24:29 AM »

Hey, I really like that downloadable hyperfocal chart! Very cool and useful! Thanks for that link Bdery!
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Mike54
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« Reply #12 on: January 24, 2007, 07:34:19 AM »

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Very cool and useful!

Yes it is, I've gone a small version laminated that I carry in my photo fanny pack, where all my small necessities can be carried easily. Spare CF cards, batteries, lens wipes, pocket knife, remote switch, you know, all that gee, I might need it kind of stuff. Grin
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« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2007, 10:17:58 AM »

It's definitely a "must carry along" item! I'd carry it right next to my TRIPOD  Tongue Grin  which, as you all might remember, I always bring along.  Smiley
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bdery
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« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2007, 11:25:38 AM »

A pleasure to help. The only problem with the paper calculator is that it's linked to a focal length. The Palm OS version is amazingly well done, supports multiple focal lengths, circle of confusion, and apertures. It's also free. Of course, you have to own a Palm device... Before finding dofmaster (and pCAM, another Palm OS based depth of field calculator) I never thought to use my Palm for photography. It's such a convenient tool, I now use it quite often.
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« Reply #15 on: January 25, 2007, 06:25:15 AM »

Emperor, I realize we got a little off subject, albeit a very worthwhile one!

Please let us know if you have any more questions about using the S2 for macro shots, Image Stablization, etc.
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